Tour group silhouetted against the burning Gates of Hell crater at dusk

Before they
close it!
Flames 30% down

Group trip with Johnny Ward

Turkmenistan & the Gates of Hell

  • From €1,699

One of the least visited countries on earth

Burning craters. Night trains. Cheap Russian cognac.

Turkmenistan is the 10th least visited country in the world, with one of the toughest visas on the planet and a government that couldn’t care less about tourist dollars. That’s where I come in.

I got rejected from Turkmenistan multiple times on my every-country trip, until I met a legend with the right contacts. We’ve run group trips together since 2023, with a 100% visa success rate, and they’ve been some of the best trips of my life.

They’re switching the Gates of Hell off step by step. Last year 30% of the gas was gone. Come before it’s gone for good.

Tour highlights

  • Gates of Hell

    Camp overnight by the crater

  • Soviet Night Train

    Right across the country

  • Yangy Kala Canyon

    Central Asia’s Grand Canyon

  • Caspian Sea

    A night at the resort

Trip facts

Dates
Trip length
Rooms
Twin share, single available
Visa
We sort it for you
Guides
Johnny + local guide

Day by day

The Itinerary

White marble buildings of Ashgabat with snow-capped mountains behind

Day 1: Arrive in Ashgabat

· Hotel, Ashgabat

Arrive any time on Day 1. My team will pick you up from the airport and you’ll be at the hotel within 15 minutes. Lots of flights land in the middle of the night. That’s fine too.

For anyone already safely in Ashgabat, there’s a group dinner and drinks that night.

  • Airport pick-up
  • Group dinner & drinks
Travellers on the rim of the burning Darvaza gas crater

Day 2: The Gates of Hell

Camping at the crater

A morning briefing (toilets, health and safety, money: thrilling stuff) and a quick Ashgabat city tour. Then it’s 270km across the Karakum desert in our private 4WDs.

We explore the craters along the ancient Inguz line, one full of water, one full of mud, and reach the fiery Darvaza crater before sunset. We pitch up, maybe share a smuggled bottle or two, and camp by the flames all night. Bring warm clothes!

  • 4WD across the Karakum
  • Sunset at the crater
  • Camp overnight
Tour group in a compartment on the Soviet sleeper train

Day 3: The Soviet Night Train

Overnight sleeper to Turkmenbashi

Breakfast in the desert, then back to Ashgabat for a well-earned shower (the hotel even has an old-school sauna) and lunch in a fancy café.

Then one of my favourite things to do in unique countries: an overnight Soviet sleeper train right across the country to Turkmenbashi. Alcohol is illegal on the trains. (Cough, cough.)

  • Desert breakfast
  • Sleeper train
Johnny Ward sitting on the edge of Yangy Kala Canyon

Day 4: Yangy Kala & the Caspian

Caspian Sea resort, Turkmenbashi

Wake up in Turkmenbashi for a short sightseeing tour and your first look at the Caspian Sea. Then it’s back in the 4WDs to Yangy Kala, Central Asia’s proud answer to the Grand Canyon.

Once the floor of the ancient Tethys Sea, it’s been carved over millions of years into wild shapes and colours. We soak up exactly where in the world we are, then head back to our Caspian Sea resort.

  • Caspian Sea
  • Yangy Kala Canyon
A rider showing an Akhal-Teke horse

Day 5: Back to Ashgabat

Hotel, Ashgabat

A short flight back to Ashgabat, a visit to see the world-famous Akhal-Teke horses, and a city tour of the marble capital.

Then dinner at Ashgabat’s fanciest restaurant, which thanks to the black market costs about $15.

  • Domestic flight
  • Akhal-Teke horses
  • Farewell dinner
The Alem Centre ferris wheel in Ashgabat

Day 6: We’re Out of Here

· Fly home

Depending on your flight you can sleep in, or (more likely) check out around 2am for an early transfer to the 4am flights.

You’ll leave having seen a country almost nobody gets to see, with a story nobody back home will quite believe.

  • Airport transfer
Turkmenistan gates of hell

Your host

Johnny Ward

Irish guy, been to every country in the world. When I did that trip, Turkmenistan rejected me multiple times. Eventually I met a legend with the right contacts who got me in, and we’ve worked together ever since. His team has a 100% visa success rate for our groups.

I hadn’t been back since 2016 until I started running these trips in 2023. I thought I’d bring one group to repay my fixer. It turned out to be probably the best group trip of my life. Very little sleep, epic times all day every day.

These kinda cool countries attract epic groups of people.

For hardcore travellers

Why Turkmenistan?

  • The Darvaza gas crater burning at night

    The Gates of Hell

    In 1971 a gas field collapsed into a 70m-wide crater. Soviet scientists set it alight, expecting it to burn out in weeks. It’s been burning for over 50 years.

  • Tour group posing in the Karakum desert

    Almost nobody gets in

    The 10th least visited country on earth and one of the hardest visas in the world. It only reopened in late 2023, so you’ll be among the first back in.

  • The Arch of Independence in Ashgabat at sunset

    Ashgabat

    White marble, golden statues and the world’s largest indoor ferris wheel. Like nowhere else on the planet.

  • Breakfast at the desert camp
  • Group selfie in front of the Gates of Hell
  • johnny ward bucket list turkmenistan
  • The night train waiting at the platform
  • Striped cliffs of Yangy Kala Canyon
  • Tour group in front of a monument in Ashgabat

Before you book

Good to Know

How about the visa?

We’ve got you. It’s one of the toughest visas in the world and is often rejected, but my team registers us, organises the letters of invitation and processes all the documents. You just turn up at the airport and pay the fee. We’ve yet to have a rejection.

Is Turkmenistan safe?

Safe doesn’t come close. One of the safest countries in the world, perhaps the safest. Let’s just say everyone obeys the law and leave it at that. As we say in Ireland, “safe as houses”.

How do I get there?

Easy. You can fly via Istanbul, Dublin, Bangkok, London and plenty more. Land any time on Day 1 and my team will meet you, whatever the hour.

Can I arrive early?

Of course. Let me know in advance and I’ll sort the permits, the hotel and the airport transfer. It’s roughly an extra $100–150.

Can I come solo?

Yes, most people do. Prices are per person sharing and I’ll match you up with a buddy. Or pay the single supplement for your own room.

Do I need travel insurance?

Yes. Never travel without it. I use HeyMondo: instant quotes, they actually pay out, and they cover places most insurers won’t.

Price and what’s included

What’s included

  • Letter of invitation, registration and all visa paperwork
  • All transport, with A/C (car, minivan or bus)
  • 4WD cars for the off-road parts (4 passengers per car)
  • Local English-speaking guide
  • Western guide (me!)
  • Overnight Soviet sleeper train, Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi
  • Domestic flight, Turkmenbashi to Ashgabat
  • Site tickets at the Akhal-Teke horse farm
  • All accommodation and all breakfasts
  • Camping at the Gates of Hell crater
  • All activities

What’s not included

  • Visa fee, paid in cash on arrival at Ashgabat airport (around $140, depending on nationality)
  • Any PCR test or other government entry requirements (around $31)
  • Additional meals (about $10 each)
  • Tips, personal items and anything not listed
  • Extra hotel nights if you arrive early
  • International flights
  • Travel insurance (required)

Tour price

€1,699

Per person sharing · 6 days

  • €200 non-refundable deposit secures your spot
  • Full payment due June 9, 2027
  • Single room supplement €509
  • Pay by card through WeTravel
Book your spot

Spots go fast

See you in Ashgabat.

The flames get smaller every year. Book online in a couple of minutes, or message me with any questions.

Rather pay by bank transfer? Email johnny@onestep4ward.com