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Epic Days in my Kars Itinerary; Exploring Eastern Turikye

I’ve been continuing filming my brand new TV show, Where Next with Johnny Ward, on TRT. We’ve filmed half the season now, and it’s been a privilege to delve deeper into pockets of Turkiye away from Istanbul and Cappadocia.

So, Iiff you thought you knew Turkiye, think again. Forget the beaches of Bodrum or the madness of Istanbul. Let me take you waaaay off the beaten track to Kars, and in winter no less. I had visited here once before, on a wild journey from Thailand to Ireland with no flights. But I rushed through Easterm Turkiye that time, this time I’m back to do it properly. So how does this place look in winter? A snow-dusted wonderland tucked up in the far northeast, where the culture is rich, the food is ridiculous, and the landscapes make you feel like you’ve stepped into a winter fairy tale.

Getting to Kars

First things first — getting here is half the fun. You can either fly domestically from Istanbul or, for the real adventure seekers, you can hop on the famous Eastern Express train, a sleeper that chugs across snowy Anatolia for 24 hours. (I took the flight this time; deadlines are deadlines, folks!)

Kars Itinerary

The blog will cover both my rough Kars itinerary, that I personally experience, but also a suggested Kars itinerary for you guys. I have a whole team set-up up to film, so more than ever, you can trust the itinerary here! Let’s retrace my steps:

Day 1: Ice, Horses, and Geese; Çıldır Lake

Kars hits different in winter. Our adventure started on the frozen expanse of Çıldır Lake, where the ice was thick enough to drive a car across (not that I’d recommend it — stick with the horse sleighs, much more Instagrammable).

The locals set up these beautiful sleigh rides — jingling bells, vibrant rugs — it’s honestly magic. Think Lapland vibes, but Turkish tea instead of overpriced hot cocoa.

After that, we tried ice fishing — hacking through a 50cm-thick sheet of ice to drop a line into freezing water. Spoiler: I caught nothing. The 2 old boys who took me out though, they’ve been doing it for 50 years. It’s been the cornerstone of their diet, and their villages diet for that matter. They were patient as they watched me flailing around, clueless and cold. But sipping tea on a frozen lake was a win. That fermented beetroot juice though? The Turkish can keep that one!

Goose Dinner at Kars Kaz Evi

That night, after a frosty drive to Kars city, it was time for the region’s ultimate dish: goose. The famous Kars Kaz Evirestaurant served us slow-cooked, golden-skinned goose atop bulgur rice soaked in rich, fatty goodness. Heaven. As you guys know, I’m not poultry guy, so I simply watched the feast from a distance. That was until the local entertainment arrived, and proceeded to force me to dance (badly) before having my lay down and throw knives very near to my more sensitive areas (let’s just say, I was happy I already had my first child!).

Day 2: Cheese, Cheese, and More Cheese

Boğatepe Village: Cheese Nirvana

I honestly think people don’t know that Turkiye is so famous for cheese. It’s world class. And Kars is one of the hotspots in the country. So, the next morning, we headed to Boğatepe Village, the cheese capital of Turkiye. High up in the snowy mountains, locals here have been crafting Kars Gravyeri (think Turkish Gruyère) for generations.

We met some of the artisans and watched the cheese-making magic happen — raw milk, wooden presses, traditional rennet. If you’re lucky, you might even get to try “civil peyniri,” the stringy dried cheese that’s almost like Turkish mozzarella sticks.

Kars Cheese Museum

Then it was back to town to check out the Kars Cheese Museum — which, random fact, is the biggest cheese museum in the world. Housed in a 250-year-old Ottoman fortification, it’s somehow cool AND cheesy at the same time (pun intended).

Dinner at the Syrian Restaurant

We wrapped up Day 2 at a cozy Syrian restaurant tucked down a snowy street. Lamb kebabs, lentil soup, endless tea. Kars is full of surprises (including Syrian wine!)

Day 3: Russian Ghosts and Natural Hot Springs

City Walk: Russian Architecture

Kars doesn’t look like anywhere else in Turkiye. Thanks to 40 years of Russian rule in the 19th century, the city feels more like a snowy Baltic town. Think grid streets, stone mansions, wide boulevards — all made from dark volcanic rock.

Wandering the streets, you’ll spot Orthodox churches, abandoned schools, and moss-covered fountains. It’s like stepping into a real-life history book.

Hotel Cheltikov

We also filmed inside the Hotel Cheltikov, a restored Russian mansion that’s now a boutique hotel — and yes, you can stay there!

Ishak Pasha Palace

Later, we took a road trip out to Ishak Pasha Palace near Doğubayazıt. It’s about a 2-hour drive but 100% worth it. The palace is like a Game of Thrones fortress dropped onto a lonely, misty mountainside.

On the way back, we hit some natural hot springs in the wilderness. Nothing beats soaking in hot water while snow falls around you.

Day 4: Ghost City of Ani

Exploring the Ani Ruins

Last but definitely not least, we spent Day 4 filming at Ani Ruins, the so-called “City of 1001 Churches.” It’s an abandoned medieval city right on the border with Armenia.

Picture crumbling cathedrals, old city walls, ancient mosques — all perched on cliffs above a snaking river. There’s literally nothing around. No souvenir shops, no crowds, just you and the wind howling through ancient stones.

Tip: Bring good boots. Some areas get super muddy in winter.

Final Thoughts on Kars

If you want a real Turkish adventure, Kars is unreal. It’s raw, authentic, and totally off the mass tourism radar. Plus, where else can you ride a horse on a frozen lake, munch cheese in a snowy village, and wander an abandoned city — all in four days?

FAQs About Visiting Kars

Is Kars safe to visit?

Yes! It’s very safe, super welcoming, and locals are thrilled to see foreigners exploring.

When’s the best time to visit Kars?

Winter (December–March) for the snowy magic, or early autumn (September–October) for cool weather and less mud. Note, it’s freeeeezing in winter!

Do I need a tour guide for Ani Ruins?

Not strictly, but having a guide makes it way richer — there’s so much layered history that’s easy to miss if you’re wandering alone.

Can you visit Kars without speaking Turkish?

For sure, it’s possible! English isn’t widespread, but people are patient and friendly. Plus, Google Translate saves the day.

There you go — that’s Kars. Wild. Cold. Delicious. Full of stories. If you’re planning your own trip, just bundle up, and get ready for an adventure you’ll never forget.