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Visit the REAL Istanbul; A Guide for People Who’ve Been Before

One of my favourite cities in the world, Istanbul. It’s got to be one of the top 5 cities to visit on our beautiful planet. You know, I choose to celebrate my 30th birthday here. Within a year, I took my mum on holiday here. Then I took my wife. I’ve backpacked it, done it on a mid-range, and splurged on luxury here. And all of it has been unreal. I can’t get enough. From the famous sites of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, of course, but also the deeper energy I feel when I’m traveling here. It’s truly a place I would consider living.

But I want to feel more. I have acted as a tour guide to my friends and family, and I could see life in Istanbul reveal itself around me. Because each time I was bringing a loved one for their first visit, I couldn’t delve as deep as I wanted. Chatting to the old guy drinking his 10th Turkish coffee (although I guess it’s just called coffee while I’m here!). Sitting by the river while the communities gather to socialise each morning. Eating Baklava in the local bakery until the sugar rush is too high. Now I’m back, I want to feel it in my veins. All of it. So I only had a few days, what did I do with it? Let’s see.

If you want an insiders itinerary for a few days in Istanbul, then feel free to copy me, here we go – in no particular order:

10,000 steps, chatting with locals

If I can give one travel tip to anyone after 15 years of almost full time travel to every single country on the planet, it’s to get your steps in. Even more important when you’re in a new place than when you’re back home.

I know some people have different levels of fitness, age, mobility, but even when I travel with my mum (75yo, Parkinson’s) we put in 10,000 steps on Day 1. When I’m alone, I aim for 25,000. Normally with a 10km run. First thing, on morning one. You get to see a destination at street level. And my recent time in Istanbul I did just that. Running along the water front. Between the 1st and 2nd bridge , Arnavutkoy – Bebek – Rumeli Hisari. You can see the google map here:

What a morning. I did about 10km, and stopped when I stumbled across a delicious looking breakfast spot. Rumeli Kale Cafe. These days I live in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and believe it or not, my favourite dish is found in Food4Thought here, where they call it Turkish Eggs. I had some Turkish friends visit me in Thailand and I took them here, they told me the real name was ‘Cilbir’.

The reason we travel

So, now i’m back in Istanbul with no need to hit all the tourist sites, my priorirty was to try to Cilbir. So when I stumbled across this cafe, sweaty, sneakers on. I popped in to ask if they had such a thing. My turkish is non-existent, but somehow between me and the lovely owner we managed to communicate:

a) It’s my goal to eat authentic Cilbir in Istanbul

b) They don’t make it there normally.

As I ruefully get set to leave, he told me to come back tomorrow and he’ll get his chef to do it just for me. This is what travel is about. The interactions, the hospitality, the warmth between strangers. And only me getting out for my 10,000 steps, at a street level, creates that. It’s hard to find that level of kindness in the tourist hotspots. Tomorrow it is!

P.S I recommend you guys also going for food at Rumeli Kale Cafe. The most lovely owner, and the most lovely food.

Rowing between Continents

You know, I once rowed from the European continent to the Americas. 2 months it took. 4 of us. Completely unsupported. No way out. No rescue boat. 2 hours on, 2 hours off, 24 hours a day for 2 months. Just to cross reach 1 continent to another.

My last time in Istanbul, I did something similar. But it took 60 minutes rather than 60 days. I wish someone had told me about this option last time around!

I left from anadolu hisari, at 5.30am. The normally hectic Bosphorous still quiet. The sun was rising. I hopped in a rowboat and left Asia behind, in less than an hour in Europe. The best morning I ever remember having in Istanbul, and amongst the best mornings of my life. The sun rise, a continent on each side, and just me on the river. Serene, beautiful with still that touch of adventure as the cargo ships began to create wakes for me to dodge. I worked up an appetite, and remember that run I went for? Breakfast was due.

Connections

After my row I made my way back to Rumeli Kale Cafe. The owner greeted my like a friend! He told me to wait, I had some coffee, and lo and behold, he unveiled the most delicious ‘Cilbir’ I had ever tasted. He sat with me while I ate. Smiles and gestures between us meant we held a conversation.

At the next table, 3 Turkish ladies intervened and helped me translate. I paid for my amazing dish, and as I left, with the help of the ladies, the owner told me to come back. He told me that Muslims, Christians, everyone are the same. Brothers and sisters. And to come again, with my family, and he would make an even more delicious Cilbi (is that even possible?!). A morning I’ll never forget.

Back to tourist mode with city Views

I know I know. “You said this was a deeper delve into visiting Istanbul, Johnny“. But I can’t come to Istanbul and NOT see the 3 main events – the Galata Tower, the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. They represent so much of what Istanbul is, of what travel is.

So I join the tourist hordes each time I visit this city and marvel at the ancient history. Albeit, I don’t generally enter any of the buildings, or take guided tours. Just being in eyeshot of them is enough for me. And with that, I head to the Seven Hills restaurant. Grab myself a local Turkish Coffee, and from there you get a view to die for. A few hundred metres in one direction is the Hagia Sophia, opposite side is the Blue Mosque. Behind you is the Bosphorus, and then the Asian side of the city. Tourist restautant it may be, but it’s always worth 20 mins of anyone’s time.

Footy Time at Fenerbache

Watching football in Turkey should be a rite of passage to any football fan of course. But also to people who want to understand the passion of Turks in general. We think the atmosphere at Liverpool games, or Barcelona games is unparalleled. But we’re oh so wrong.

In my recent visit to Istanbul, it was quite last minute so I missed out on watching Fenerbahce’s pre-season friendlies (yup, even the pre-season friendlies are 100% sold out). But I live for football, so I swung down to the ground to feel the energy.

Fenerbahce were playing Hull City. A 2nd division side in England. It was a warm up game. Nothing special. And no ‘famous’ players. Yet, I could hear the stadium, chanting, bouncing, screaming from over 1 kilometre away. This was for a friendly?! Insane.

It’s my dream to come and watch Fenerbahce vrs Galatasaray one day. I promise myself I’ll do that! Anyway, yes, make an effort to catch a game! But try to buy your ticket way in advance.

Kadıköy vibes and Ferry views from Sultanahmet, Istanbul to Fenerbache, Kadıköy.

And if it’s Fenerbahce you want you watch, there is no better way than taking the local ferry from Europe to Asia. No tourist cruise. Cheap tickets. And still the same epic views across the Bosphorus.

In fact, even if you’re not going to the Fenerbache stadium, the ferry I took will take you to Kadikoy. The ‘coolest’ area in Istanbul. Young energy, fun vibe, epic food, busy bars. Moda district is the best area of the lot, so check that out.

The best pide in Istanbul!

I stopped at Pide Sun, walking distance from the stadium to what a local told me was ‘the best Pide in Istanbul’. It was in Moda district, Kadıköy – Pide Sun. I’m veggie so I went with the cheese and egg Pide and it BLEW. MY. MIND. Go there!

Deep Cultural History at 15 July Martyrs Bridge, Istanbul

On a more sombre note, to learn about modern Istanbul and to go beyond the usual tourist spots in Istanbul, you’ve got to visit the 15 July Martyrs Bridge and its monument.

This place isn’t just a bridge; it’s a powerful symbol of resistance and unity. The events of July 15, 2016, when the people of Turkey stood up against a coup attempt, are etched into the nation’s heart.

The monument honors the bravery of ordinary citizens who fought for their democracy. Visiting here gives you a real insight into the soul of modern Turkey. Raw, emotional, and historically significant. Definitely worth delving deeper.

Breakfast at Tarihi Çınaraltı

This spot, tucked away by the Bosphorus, is a local favorite where you can enjoy your brekkie with epic waterfront views. What makes it special? You can actually bring your own food! Yep, grab some simit (Turkish sesame bread) from a nearby bakery, maybe some olives and cheese, and settle in. The vibe here is super friendly, with locals chatting, sipping tea, and enjoying the slow pace. It’s the kind of authentic experience that makes Istanbul unforgettable

I ended up meeting a couple here who lived in Izmir. And they wouldn’t leave without extending me a visit to go and stay with them. Ah this country really gets you!

I’d say brekkie here is best. You’re right on the river, the sun has just risen. Order yourself a simit as I mentioned above, and a local Turkish brekkie, and you’re good until dinner!

View points and architecture at Çamlıca Mosque

In my last visits, I knew nothing of Istanbul’s largest Mosque. It’s found on the Asian side of Istanbul, and holds more than 60,000 worshippers on special occasions. Wowzer.

The grandeur and architecture of the Mosque rivals the kind of buildings you see in Abu Dhabi and Dubai. It’s ABSOLUTELY beautiful. And if you go out of prayer time, it’s empty. I went early in the morning and had the place to myself.

As a non-Muslim you’re welcome too. A lovely gesture. And outside the Mosque, the viewpoint allows panoramic views of the the whole European side of the city. It’s spectacular.

I’ve been to Istanbul so many times, but this was my first visit here. I feel like it’s not anywhere near as famous as it should be. Don’t miss it on your next visit to Istanbul for sure.

Orient Express Station Restaurant

If you’re obsessed with travel, especially overland travel, then the Orient Express will be no stranger to you. Did you know the terminal station, which starts in Paris, finished in Istanbul? And the station is still there today, even if the Orient Express is no longer.

So when you’re next in Istanbul, you’ve got to go beyond the standard tourist spots and check out the Orient Express Station at Sirkeci. This isn’t just a train station. It’s a piece of cultural history that once connected Europe’s elite to the wonders of the East. The station’s old-world charm, with its stunning Ottoman architecture, takes you back to the golden age of travel.

Plus, the Orient Express Restaurant keeps that luxurious vibe alive. It’s a real taste of history. Literally! For anyone interested in the stories and romance of travel, this place is a must. And when you eat, go for the Turkish delicacy of Sütlaç here. If it’s good enough for Agatha Christie, Leo Tolstoy and Lawrence of Arabia (all previous visitors here), then it’s good enough for me!

Evening walks on Galata Bridge

One final tip from me folks. Galata Bridge is one of the most spectacular bridges in the world. And even on your first visit you will of course cross it as you make your way to Sultanahmet. But don’t miss it at night. Very few tourists do it, and it’s an event.

Once the sun has set, wander over to Ahi Çelebi Mosque. You’re right by the water. Staring at Asia. The Mosques are lit up, and Istanbul is alive. And waltz across the Galata Bridge. Locals fishing, music playing, and literally probably no tourists.

Underneath the road are a section of restaurants. Many of which are seafood, eating the fish directly caught beneath. A juice, a beer, a meal here is special. And then it’s time to call it a day.

Recap on the Local food and drinks stops

For a deeper delve into the real Istanbul, whack these stops in your google map for dinner and drinks times:

• Sütlaç (DELICIOUS turkish dessert) @ the Orient Express Station
• Pide @ Moda district, Kadıköy – Pide Sun
• Baklava @ Karakoy Gulluoglu – the best in Istanbul, and maybe the world!
• Turkish streetfood @ Mumhane Caddesi Istanbul
• Vegan food @ Bir Nevi Deli. AMAZING.
• Breakfast @ Cinaralti.
• Cocktails @ JW Marriott Sky Bar (best rooftop bar in the city with UNREAL views)
• Bar hopping near Fenerbahce stadium, in Moda.
• Tourist turkish coffee @ Seven Hills

Final thoughts on going deeper in Istanbul

Maybe it takes me multiple visits, and a lifetime on the road, to yearn for deeper connections in my favourite spots. But I’m grateful for the journey. And to meet the locals on a street level, to take their recommendations of where to eat and drink, to learn about the politics, both good and bad. It’s all a blessing.

This trip to Istanbul, for me, was one of the best city experiences of my life. A blend of culture, calories and exercise. New friends and old. In one the world’s greatest cities. I hope you guys can follow some of my tips, and get to see another side of Istanbul. It’s a special place.