Climbing Mount Wilhelm; My Experience on Papua New Guinea’s Highest Mountain

Mount Wilhelm is the highest mountain in Papua New Guinea at 4,509 metres, or 14,793 feet. It is remote, beautiful, logistically annoying and just rough enough to feel like a proper expedition. I had already completed the Seven Summits, but Mount Wilhelm occasionally appears in the never-ending argument about which mountain should represent Oceania/Australia/Australasia. Most Seven Summits lists use Puncak Jaya or Kosciuszko, depending on the definition, but my ridiculous box-ticking brain still wanted to nail this Mount Wilhelm Climb!

So I persuaded some friends to come with me. There were 4 of us in total. What followed was a brilliant trek involving cancelled flights in both directions, a beautiful sunrise summit, some truly shit accommodation and, because apparently I cannot have a normal adventure, a refractured ankle on the descent.

• If you’d like to climb Mount Wilhelm, I’m the only operator that offers the full 5 day package. Starting and finishing in Port Moresby Airport. You can book it HERE for $3900 for a private climb! Or here:

Here is everything you need to know about climbing Mount Wilhelm, and my most recent experience doing it earlier this year.

Where is Mount Wilhem?

In the middle of one of the least visited countries in the world, Papua New Guinea. With no road access!

Mount Wilhelm sits in the rugged Bismarck Range of Papua New Guinea, deep in the Highlands. A GORGEOUS world of valleys, villages, and cloud forests. At 4,509m, it’s the highest point in all of PNG, rising above tropical jungle and glacier-fed lakes.

The climb takes you through traditional Highlands communities, rainforest, alpine meadows, and finally a rocky scramble to the summit for sunrise over the entire country. It’s wild, but manageable.

Is Papua New Guinea, and the Mount Wilhelm Cimb Safe Now?

Yes. Kind-of. Well acually, it’s probably better to say that your Mount Wilhelm climb CAN be safe if you organise it properly (whereas PNG is categorically not safe!).

So, as long as you go with our trusted local team and stick to the plan. PNG’s cities can be rough, but Mount Wilhelm is in a controlled, rural, community-run area that depends on trekking tourism.

Our itinerary is tightly managed:

• airport pickups
• private transfers
• registered local guides
• community guesthouses
• controlled access to the mountain

You’re not wandering Port Moresby alone at 2am. You’re in the mountains, with local people who grew up here and know every inch of the trail.

Accommodation On Your Mount Wilhelm Climb?

For me, this is what I did, to minimise the suffering.

• NIGHT 1: We did 5* hotel in Port Moresby (Hilton)
• NIGHT 2: Betty’s Lodge (LOVELY!)
• NIGHT 3: Awful Aframe on the way up the mountain
• NIGHT 4: Betty’s lodge again on the way down
• NIGHT 5: Back to the Hilton in the capital.

My Mount Wilhelm climb Itinerary

The whole itinerary is 5 days generally (starting and finish in Port Moresbye), with the climb itself being 2 days.

On paper, it looked straightforward. Fly into the Highlands, drive to Betty’s Lodge, hike to base camp, summit for sunrise and return to Port Moresby.

Day 1: Land in Papua New Guinea

You can fly to Port Moresby, PNG’s awful capital, from Brisbane/Singapore/Manila amongst other places. I recommend a 5* hotel, due to safety. We stayed in the hilton. Gym, dinner, drinks, gear check. With the flight to the highlands the next morning.

Day 2: Port Moresby to Betty’s Lodge

The trip began with a domestic flight from Port Moresby to Mount Hagen. Or at least it was supposed to.

Our original flight was cancelled, or overbooked, which is not exactly unusual in Papua New Guinea. Domestic flights are notoriously unreliable, so book the EARLIEST ONE. And be strong and fight for a seat on the next plane if that one doesn’t work. That’s what got us there! We had to fight to get ourselves moved onto another flight. Eventually, after the usual airport chaos and far too much uncertainty, we made it into the Highlands.

From Mount Hagen, it was a long drive to Keglsugl and Betty’s Lodge. The journey takes roughly five to six hours, depending on road conditions. The final section is brutally rough, so you need a proper vehicle and a driver who knows what they are doing. By the time we arrived, Betty’s Lodge felt like a small miracle. Hot showers, wifi, comfortable and clean beds. MUCH MUCH better than I was expecting.

We ate, met the local team, sorted our equipment and settled in for the night at approximately 2,800 metres.

Betty’s Lodge: The Best Base for Mount Wilhelm

Betty’s Lodge, now also promoted as Betty’s Place, sits near the main Mount Wilhelm trailhead. It is a family-run lodge surrounded by gardens in one of the most beautiful parts of the Highlands. Ruth, the daughter, is the real hero here. Amazing a logistics, and hospitality, she’s a real gem. Calling it luxurious would be pushing things, but it is genuinely lovely. The rooms are comfortable, the food is good, and after the long drive through the Highlands, it feels wonderfully civilised.

The entire lodge had that rare combination of being organised enough to make you feel safe while still feeling like a proper local Highlands experience. The lodge sits at around 2,800 metres, which also gives your body a little time to begin adjusting to the altitude before climbing higher. Enjoy the comfort while you have it. The next night is considerably less glamorous.

Day 3: Betty’s Lodge to the A-Frame Base Camp (climbing Day 1)

After breakfast, we began hiking from Betty’s Lodge towards the Mount Wilhelm base camp near the alpine lakes.

This part of the trek is gorgeous. The trail starts in thick, humid forest before gradually opening into grasslands and a wide glacial valley. You pass tangled roots, mud, waterfalls and increasingly dramatic mountain scenery as you gain altitude.

It is only around five or six kilometres to base camp, taking approximately three to five hours depending on your pace and the conditions. That sounds easy, but mud has a remarkable ability to make every kilometre feel twice as long.

As we climbed, the tropical vegetation began disappearing and the air became noticeably colder. Eventually, the landscape opened around the Piunde and Aunde lakes, with steep ridges rising above them. It is an amazing place to finish the day.

Then you see where you are sleeping.

The Mount Wilhelm A-Frame Hut

The A-frame at base camp is functional. That is the nicest thing I can honestly say about it. It is basic as f*ck. Sleeping on the (dirty) floor basically with a drop toilet.

There is no luxury, almost no comfort and very little separating you from the cold. You are sharing a rough mountain hut at approximately 3,500 metres, trying to sleep in all your layers while knowing that your alarm is going off around midnight. The hut serves an important purpose. Sleeping there shortens the summit ascent and gives your body some additional time at altitude. But as accommodation, it is pretty awful. And they could do a much better job, it’s not THAT far from town!

Climb Mount Wilhelm

We ate, prepared our equipment and attempted to sleep. Between the cold, the basic sleeping arrangements and the anticipation of summit day, nobody was getting the best night of their life. A headtorch, warm sleeping clothes, a proper sleeping bag and a willingness to suffer are all strongly recommended.

Day 4: Mount Wilhelm Summit Day (climbing Day 2)

Summit day began brutally early. Around 01.30/2am. We left the A-frame in the middle of the night, aiming to reach the summit around sunrise. The first section followed the lakes before climbing onto steeper and rockier terrain.

Almost the entire ascent happened in darkness. Your world shrinks to the small patch of earth lit up by your crappy headtorch. You cannot see how far remains (often a blessing!). The altitude becomes increasingly noticeable above 4,000 metres. The air is thinner, your pace slows, and even straightforward sections begin requiring more effort.

The upper mountain involves uneven rock, loose ground and some simple scrambling. Nothing is technically difficult, but the combination of darkness, cold, altitude and tired legs makes it serious enough. Sunrise hits though, and you see the most beautiful mountain ranges lost in the sea of clouds.

Eventually, we reached the summit of Mount Wilhelm at 4,509 metres. It was absolutely brilliant. After all the flight chaos, the brutal road, the A-frame and the freezing nighttime climb, the summit made everything worthwhile. The landscape opened beneath us, with the lakes and ridges of the Highlands stretching away below.

Standing on the highest point in Papua New Guinea with four friends was one of those proper adventure moments. No crowds, no commercial circus, no cable car and no souvenir shop. Just five of us on top of a beautiful mountain in one of the world’s wildest countries.

Then we had to get down!

Refracturing My Ankle on the Descent

People focus so much on reaching a summit that they forget one important detail: getting down is often the dangerous part. You are exhausted, your concentration drops and every slippery rock becomes an opportunity to ruin your day.

Somewhere during the descent, I managed to refracture my ankle. I have fractured the same ankle several times because apparently once was not enough. Also, I had torn my calf muscle on a run in Chongqing, China the previous month, or 6 weeks or so ago, so I had it all strapped up. And then by protecting that, my old broken ankle recracked. Ooophs.

That transformed an already long descent into a complete shit show.

The summit was over, the adrenaline was fading, and we still had to return past the lakes, collect everything from base camp and continue all the way down to Betty’s Lodge. This is why trekking poles and proper boots matter. It is also why you cannot treat the descent as an easy victory lap. The descent from Mount Wilhelm is long, uneven and potentially slippery, especially once your legs are tired.

Speaking of proper boots, BOTH my left and right boot gave way on the way down too. I was having a great day.

Eventually, we reached Betty’s Lodge and stopped moving. I was exhausted, filthy, injured and delighted. I took HOURS and HOURS to get down. Smashed 100mg of tramadol and hobbled with 2 poles all the way down. Every so often misstepping as it started hammering down with rain, and an acute pain would should inside my ankle. Legit one of the worst mornings of my life.

Anyway, That night at Betty’s felt about ten times more luxurious than it had two days earlier. Thank God I brought that Irish whiskey in my bag. I’m never unprepared!

Day 5: Betty’s Lodge to Port Moresby

After breakfast, we began the long drive back to Mount Hagen Airport. We reached the airport expecting to fly back to Port Moresby. Then our flight was cancelled again. Of course it fucking was.

We had already fought our way onto a replacement flight coming into the Highlands, and now we had to do it all over again in the opposite direction. Eventually, we managed to get ourselves rebooked and returned to Port Moresby. But the experience confirmed one of the most important lessons about travelling in Papua New Guinea: never build a tight itinerary around domestic flights.

Leave spare days. Avoid booking an important international connection immediately after your domestic flight. Have some money available for unexpected accommodation or transport. A PNG flight schedule is more of an aspiration than a legally binding promise.

Why Mount Wilhelm Climb?

Mount Wilhelm is everything great adventure travel should be: raw, remote, culturally rich, physically challenging, and utterly rewarding. No crowds. No commercial circus.

Just real adventure, real mountains, real people. And you’ll be climbing alongside me. Sweating, swearing, and loving every second. Come stand on top of Papua New Guinea with us.

Is Mount Wilhelm one of the 7 summits?

Occasionally it’s said to be Australasia’s highest mountain, but probably not.

Why? Well, the argument comes from the absolute mess surrounding the definition of the Australian continent, Oceania and Australasia.

The original Bass Seven Summits list uses Mount Kosciuszko in Australia (also wrong FYI). Then the CORRECT, and more difficult, Messner list uses Puncak Jaya, also known as Carstensz Pyramid, which stands at 4,884 metres in Indonesian-controlled West Papua.

Some people then argue that Indonesia belongs to Asia, so Carstensz Pyramid should be counted as Asian rather than Australasian. Under that interpretation, Mount Wilhelm becomes the highest mountain in Australasia because Papua New Guinea sits on the Australian continental landmass.

Why that’s a bit of a stretch? The problem is that national borders are largely irrelevant when defining continents. Carstensz Pyramid and Mount Wilhelm are both on the island of New Guinea. Moving across the border from Papua New Guinea into Indonesia does not suddenly move the mountain onto a different geological continent.

So Mount Wilhelm is not included on either of the two standard Seven Summits lists. It is unquestionably the highest mountain in Papua New Guinea, but calling it the highest in Australasia requires a very selective definition.

• Is the argument slightly dodgy? Yes.
• Was it still enough of an excuse for my obsessive box-ticking brain to climb another mountain? Also yes.

Mount Wilhelm Facts

Here are the essential Mount Wilhelm facts:

• Elevation: 4,509 metres or 14,793 feet
• Location: Bismarck Range, Papua New Guinea
• Status: Highest mountain in Papua New Guinea (arguably one of the Seven Summits)
• Standard route: Bettys Lodge to A Frame, overnight. A Frame to Summit. Back to Betty’s lodge.
• Trailhead altitude: Approximately 2,800 metres
• Base-camp altitude: Approximately 3,500 metres
• Total return distance: Roughly 23 to 24 kilometres
• Typical trekking time: Two to three days on the mountain. Possibile in one beast day (I wish I had done that_
• Difficulty: Non-technical but physically demanding
• Best climbing period: Usually June to September
• Main challenges: Altitude, cold, darkness, mud, slippery rocks and unreliable weather

It is not a technical climb. 0 % technical. You do not need ropes, ice axes or advanced mountaineering skills on the standard route. Do not mistake “non-technical” for easy, though. A long summit day at altitude can still kick the shit out of you. Also, the summit is some scrambling over rocks etc, no ropes though.

How Difficult Is the Mount Wilhelm Climb?

I would rate the standard Mount Wilhelm itinerary as physically challenging but achievable for a reasonably fit person. Even without training.

The walk from Betty’s Lodge to base camp is not especially long, but the summit day is a bastard. You start in the middle of the night, climb through cold and darkness, reach 4,509 metres and then descend all the way past base camp to Betty’s Lodge.

The official Papua New Guinea tourism guide estimates:

• Three to five hours from Betty’s Place to base camp
• Four to seven hours from base camp to the summit
• Six to eight hours from the summit back to the trailhead

The trail is muddy through the lower sections and rocky higher up. There are places where you may use your hands for balance, but there is no serious technical climbing.

Altitude is the biggest unknown. Someone who is extremely fit can still become sick at 4,500 metres. Fitness helps you move efficiently, but it does not make you immune to altitude sickness.

For the standard itinerary, I would want a decent general fitness level. For the single-push alternative from Betty’s Lodge, I would want to be at least eight out of ten mountain fit and already acclimatised.

Mount Wilhelm Summit/Distance Strava Stats:

I forgot my Suunto watch so I only had my Apple Watch, which meant it died on section 4 of 4. So you can see the other sections here:

Day 1. Betty’s Lodge to the A-Frame

Day 2: A-Frame to summit through the night

Day 2: Summit back to A-Frame

Later on Day 2: A-Frame back to Betty’s Lodge

Battery died and didn’t record, but it’s the same as the first strava section in reverse (although about 3x slower because I fractured my effffing ankle on the way down). So ti’s about 7 km.

TOTAL DISTANCE OF WILHELM CLIMB?

About 14km up, and 14km down, so 28km. Maybe a little less. Adn from Betty’s lodge at 2800m to the summit at 4,509 means a 1700m altitude gain to, across the 2 days.

Mount Wilhelm Weather and the Best Time to Climb

You can attempt Mount Wilhelm throughout the year, but the best chance of stable conditions is generally from June to September.

Even then, the weather can change quickly. The trail passes through several climate zones, starting in humid forest and ending on a cold, exposed summit. Rain lower down can turn the path into mud, while temperatures around the upper camp and summit can fall below freezing.

Most groups start the summit climb during the night because mornings normally offer the best visibility. Cloud often builds later, potentially hiding the views you have worked so hard to reach.

You need to prepare for:

• Rain and deep mud
• Freezing nighttime temperatures
• Strong wind near the summit
• Rapidly changing visibility
• Wet and slippery rocks
• A summit view consisting entirely of cloud, if the mountain decides it hates you

We were fortunate. The trek was gorgeous and the summit was genuinely spectacular. Nothing is guaranteed on a mountain, though, especially one this remote.

Climbing Wilhelm in One Day?

Yes, if you’re fit. You could leave Betty’s lodge at 2/3/4/5am. Hit the A-Frame in 2 hours. Break for brekkie. Then hit the summit in 3/4 more hours before sunset. Then back to the A-Frame in 2 hours. And back to Betty’s for dinner. I would do that if I was doing it agaan. Only if you’re fit though. 1700m altitude gain is a lot in one day!

How About the PNG Visa?

Super easy. Papua New Guinea now offers e-visas online for most nationalities, and the process is quick and straightforward.

• Cost: $50 USD
• Processing time: usually 3–5 working days
• Validity: 30 or 60 days depending on the option you choose
• Entry: You’ll land in Port Moresby, then we connect to the Highlands

Mount Wilhelm Route Options

There are three realistic ways to structure a Mount Wilhelm climb.

1) The Standard Route With One Night at Base Camp

This is what we did:

1. Port Moresby to Mount Hagen and Betty’s Lodge
2. Betty’s Lodge to base camp
3. Base camp to the summit, then down to Betty’s Lodge
4. Drive to the airport and return to Port Moresby

This is the best option for most climbers. It divides the ascent, allows some acclimatisation and keeps the summit morning manageable.

2) A Longer Acclimatisation Itinerary

If you are worried about altitude, add another night either at Betty’s Lodge or base camp.

An extra acclimatisation day makes the trip longer and forces you to spend more time in basic accommodation, but it gives your body more time to adjust before reaching 4,509 metres.

3) Betty’s Lodge to the Summit in One Push

This avoids the A-frame but creates a huge summit day. Consider it only if you are extremely fit, properly acclimatised and accompanied by a capable local guide.

You will be hiking through darkness, altitude and fatigue. My own ankle injury happened during the descent on the standard itinerary, so doubling down on exhaustion is not something to take lightly.

Less frequently used approaches to Mount Wilhelm also exist, but the Keglsugl route is the established option for most international climbers.

Mount Wilhelm Packing List

You do not need technical climbing equipment, but you do need proper trekking gear.

Essential Clothing

• Waterproof hiking jacket
• Warm insulated jacket
• Thermal base layers
• Trekking trousers
• Warm hat
• Buff or neck covering
• Waterproof gloves
• At least two pairs of hiking socks
• Dry clothes reserved for sleeping

Essential Trekking Equipment

• Broken-in hiking boots with strong grip
• Trekking poles
• Headtorch
• Spare headtorch batteries
• Comfortable daypack
• Waterproof pack cover or internal dry bags
• Water bottles or hydration bladder
• Power bank
• Personal first-aid supplies
• Blister treatment
• Sunscreen
• Insect repellent

Sleeping Equipment

Confirm exactly what your lodge or operator provides. Do not assume the A-frame has comfortable bedding.

At minimum, check whether you need:

• A sleeping bag rated below freezing
• Sleeping-bag liner
• Inflatable pillow
• Sleeping mat
• Earplugs

The hut is cold, communal and rough. Bringing one extra comfort item may be the best decision you make all week.

Optional but Useful

• Gaiters for mud
• High-energy snacks
• Electrolyte tablets
• Camera
• Lightweight tripod
• Small towel
• Toilet paper
• Ankle support if you have a history of ankle problems

Yes, that final item is included because I learned the hard way.

Is Mount Wilhelm Safe?

The standard Mount Wilhelm route is non-technical, but the mountain is remote and help may not arrive quickly.

The main trekking risks include:

• Altitude sickness
• Hypothermia
• Sudden weather changes
• Poor visibility
• Slips and falls
• Ankle and knee injuries
• Exhaustion during the descent
• Limited communications
• Delayed evacuation

The wider security situation in Papua New Guinea adds another layer. You should arrange airport pickups, private road transfers, local guides and accommodation before arriving. Do not wander around Port Moresby or attempt the Highlands journey without reliable local contacts.

Our time around the mountain felt welcoming and community-run, but that does not mean you should become careless. Good local organisation is the reason the experience works.

Is Climbing Mount Wilhelm Worth It?

Absolutely.

The journey is expensive, the flights are unreliable, the base-camp accommodation is terrible and the descent gave me another fractured ankle. Despite all that, I loved it.

The trek is beautiful, Betty’s Lodge is a genuinely special base, and standing at sunrise on the highest point in Papua New Guinea with four friends felt like a proper expedition.

After completing the Seven Summits and travelling to every country in the world, I still want experiences that make me feel properly alive. Mount Wilhelm did exactly that. It was uncomfortable, chaotic and occasionally painful.

In other words, it was my kind of trip.

How to Book a Mount Wilhelm Climb

Having it all set-up now, and going back each year, I can organise a climb for you privately or with your group for $3900 USD directly with my fixers in Port Moresby, including airport pick-ups etc, all the way to the team in the highlands, including porters etc. DM me on instagram.com/onestep4ward if you need help or would like to book. Same itinerary as mine.

• If you’d like to climb Mount Wilhelm, I’m the only operator that offers the full 5 day package. Starting and finishing in Port Moresby Airport. You can book it HERE for $3900 for a private climb! Or here:

You can also do it solo, but give PLENTY of time for mistakes. It’s not easy!